Kelinci Hias

fuzzy lop indonesia yang aneh...

2009-06-24T06:58:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias> asal muasal fuzzy lop (AFL)>searching di web berikut searching di breeder terkenal dibandung ternyata semua sama, yang dinamakan fuzzy lop adalah asal kelinci yang berperawakan kupingnya menjuntai kebawah dengan bulu yang lebat, alias holland lop gondrong gitu lah... kok semua pada beragumen begitu yah... what the hell yeah.. kasian banget kelinci malang tersebut.. difitnah sebagai jenis kelinci fuzzy lop, padahal mereka kelinci silangan yang ga jelas, dari angora jadi-jadian sama holland lop jadi-jadian..

nah bagi para rabbit lovers kudu baca nih
asal muasal fuzzy lop

hati-hati kalo kelinci banyak makan

2009-06-16T20:31:00.000-07:00

teliti memilih makanan kelinci, jangan karena makannya banyak, kelinci jadi makin sehat, bisa-bisa kegemukan, bisa mendatangkan penyakit tuh

An unlimited supply of fresh hay is the single most important part of a healthful rabbit diet.

"The uncontrolled feeding of a pelleted diet to a house rabbit can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease as a result of the high concentration of calories, low fiber, and high calcium levels in the pellets," says Dr. Susan Brown of the Midwest Bird & Exotic Animal Hospital in Westchester, Illinois.

The House Rabbit Society is hearing more and more of rabbits who do poorly on a diet primarily of pellets. Some rabbits are experiencing chronic intermittent diarrhea, some produce too many cecal pellets, and many are very overweight. Rabbits do not need a diet primarily of pellets. Pellets are just convenience food, like feeding your kids a Big Mac™ for every meal.

Pellet diets were originally formulated as an efficient, economical, and easy-to-use method to promote rapid growth and weight gain in rabbits raised for meat or fur - rabbits not meant to live very long. This is not the goal we want for our companion house rabbits, who are expected to live out their full life potential of 8-10 years. The House Rabbit Society recommends a diet of unlimited fresh grass or Timothy hay, a variety of vegetables, and limited pellets (depending on your rabbits age and other factors).

Removing pellets from the diets of some of our rabbits was a traumatic experience (for us, not for the rabbits). After many years of feeding a diet primarily of pellets, many of our rabbits have come down with chronic problems of clumpy or runny diarrhea and others have become quite obese. We also receive many phone calls describing rabbits with chronic diarrhea. These rabbits have been through every conceivable test to try to diagnose the problem. The owners have gone from one veterinarian to another trying to find a solution and, finally, in desperation, they want us to take their rabbits because of the mess and the time involved in constantly bathing these rabbits.

The San Diego Chapter of the House Rabbit Society favors feeding orchard or meadow grass, rye grass, Timothy hay, Bermuda grass or oat hay for best results. Alfalfa does not contain enough fiber to produce the desired large, light-colored droppings that indicate optimum digestive health. A "mix" of these recommended hays provides the healthiest diet for your bunny and can be purchased directly from San Diego *HRS.

For more great information about the healthiest diet for your rabbit, visit Carrot Cafe'.

* The HRS Office is open the 1st and 3rd Saturdays of each month for sales of hay and other rabbit supplies.

About Pellets

If you are supplementing a hay diet with pellets, avoid packaged pellets that contain dried bananas, nuts and seeds. These products are too high in sugar and carbohydrates, and can cause obesity, diarrhea and other serious digestive upsets. Limit your rabbit to plain, fresh-looking, dark green rabbit pellets, giving approximately 1/4 cup per 5 lbs. of ideal body weight per day. Buy pellets with a fiber content of no less than 18% and only in a quantity that you will use within one month. Store pellets in air-tight containers and keep away from moisture. Discard pellets that are old, moist, or bug-infested.

Timothy Pellets

There is a healthier alternative to alfalfa pellets: Timothy Pellets. They are available through a couple different sources, including Oxbow Hay Company's Bunny Basics/T (for "Timothy") and American Pet Diner's Timmy for Rabbits. These pellets are high in fiber and low in protein.

When switching to Timothy-based pellets, remember to make the change gradually. Mix a few Timothy in with your current pellets, increasing the percentage of Timothy pellets over a period of several days until that is all you give.

An unlimited supply of fresh hay is the single most important part of a healthful rabbit diet.

For more great information about the healthiest diet for your rabbit, visit Carrot Cafe'.

* The HRS Office is open the 1st and 3rd Saturdays of each month for sales of hay and other rabbit supplies.

About Pellets

Timothy Pellets

Seputar makanan kelinci

2009-06-16T19:59:00.001-07:00

Fiber is vital to the normal function of the digestive system in rabbits. Fresh grass hay and vegetables should make up the bulk of the diet for house rabbits. Feeding a diet consisting mainly of pellets may result in obesity and increase the likelihood of digestive problems. While there is some fiber in pellets, it is finely ground and does not appear to stimulate intestinal function as well as fiber found in grass hays. Roughage also aids in the prevention of hair balls. The addition of some pellets does add some balance to the diet, however.

Anything other than hay, vegetables, and pellets is considered a treat and should be feed in strict moderation. The digestive system of a rabbit is very susceptible to serious upsets if the diet is inappropriate. The amount of pellets should be restricted, especially in overweight rabbits, but any reduction in pellets should be made up with a variety of fresh vegetables and unlimited access to hay.

Hay
Hay (grass hays such as timothy or oat hay) should be available at all times. Some rabbits may not take much hay at first. Adding fresh hay a couple of times a day may help, and as the amount of pellets is reduced the rabbit will likely become hungry enough to eat the hay. The House Rabbit Society recommends starting baby bunnies on alfalfa hay and introducing grass hays by 6-7 months, gradually decreasing the alfalfa until the rabbit is solely on grass hays by 1 year. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein and lower fiber than the grass hays, although many owners find their rabbits prefer alfalfa hays. If your adult rabbit is used to alfalfa hay, try mixing alfalfa with a grass hay to start and gradually reduce the amount of alfalfa.

Vegetables
Vegetable should make up a large portion of the diet. Depending on the size of the rabbit, 2-4 cups of fresh veggies should be given per day. A variety must be fed daily to ensure a balanced diet. If a rabbit is used to eating mainly pellets, the change must be made gradually to allow the rabbit's digestive system time to adjust. Only add one new vegetable to the diet at a time so if the rabbit has diarrhea or other problems it will be possible to tell which vegetable is the culprit. Suggested vegetable include carrots, carrot tops, parsley, broccoli, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, endive, romaine lettuce, kale and spinach. However, kale, spinach and mustard greens are high in oxalates so their feeding should be limited to 3 meals per week. Beans, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes may cause problems and should be avoided. Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value so should be avoided. Rhubarb should also be avoided (toxicity). Wash vegetables well, and only feed dandelions that are known to be pesticide free (try a health food store for organically grown dandelion greens).

Vegetables should be introduced to bunnies around 12 weeks of age, in small quantities and one at a time. As more vegetable are added watch for diarrhea and discontinue the most recently added vegetable if this occurs. Over time, the amount of vegetables fed is increased, and the amount of pellets decreased, so that by 1 year of age the adult feeding recommendations are followed.

Pellets
Pellets are basically designed for commercial rabbit production, and are quite high in calories. As a result, house rabbits fed unlimited pellets may end up with obesity and related health problems, as well as an excess of other nutrients. Pellets do have a place in rabbit nutrition, as they are rich and balanced in nutrients. However, experts recommend restricting the amoung of pellets fed, and compensating with fresh vegetables (see below) and grass hays.

Choose a fresh, good quality pellet. The House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 20-25% fiber, around 14% protein (with no animal protein), and less than 1% Calcium for most house rabbits (spayed/neutered). For adults, the amount should be carefully regulated, depending on the size (weight) of the rabbit. As a rule, give about 1/4 cup for rabbits 5-7 lb, 1/2 cup for 8-10 lb rabbits, and 3/4 cup for 11-15b lb rabbits. Baby rabbits can be fed pellets free choice (available at all times), decreasing to 1/2 cup per 6 lb. of body weight by around 6 months.

Treats
The House Rabbit Society recommends 1-2 tablespoons of fresh fruits be given daily as a treat. Treats sold in pet stores marketed for rabbits are generally unnecessary and in some cases could cause digestive problems due to their high carbohydrate or sugar content. Instead of food treats, consider offering twigs from apple or willow trees (pesticide-free only).

picked from house rabbit society

hijauan yang cocok untuk makanan kelinci

2009-06-16T19:43:00.001-07:00

'Greens', the broad term often used to describe fresh food bunnies eat, includes vegetables, herbs and a few fruits. These 'greens' provide vitamins, minerals and fibre for your bunny all wrapped up in a tasty package. There are a wide range of vegetables and plants suitable for rabbits but there are a few that are poisonous so check before feeding your rabbit.

Growing your own greens has several benefits, its cheaper, the vegetables are fresher and you know that no pesticides have been used. Even if you don't grow all your rabbit's fresh foods just a few can provide a tasty addition. You don't need a garden or green fingers, everyone can give this ago!

Here are a few plants to get you started...

Grass

If you have grass already growing in your garden then you can cut it for your rabbit using scissors. Don't feed grass cuttings from lawn mowers as these rapidly start to ferment.

If you don't have a lawn, or your rabbit doesn't have access to it, then you can grow your very own pot/tray full of grass. You will need: Compost/Soil, a tray/pot, grass seeds and water. Choose a compost/soil that doesn't have any added pesticides, ones labelled 'organic' are the best choice or just dig some up from your garden. A seed tray or any sort of plant pot will be suitable, if you are growing the grass outside where it rains or you aren't confident about giving the right amount of water then make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the pot/tray so that it doesn't get flooded! Standard grass seed from your local garden centre will be fine, avoid wild flower/meadow mixes as they may have poisonous plants mixed in with the grass.

Spacing grass seeds

Fill your pot with soil leaving about 3/4 inch (1.5cm) gap at the top. That's so the soil doesn't fall out or float out when you water. Then sprinkle the grass seeds on top, try to sprinkle them evenly so they end up spaced roughly like the diagram on the right, don't worry if you don't get it quite right though.

Water so the soil is damp not swimming, its easiest to use a watering can with a sprinkler (a flat end with lots of little holes in) or a spay bottle rather than a jug. Next put the pot/tray somewhere sunny either outside or on a windowsill. Within a couple of weeks you should have baby grass. You will need to check daily that soil stays damp and water when necessary. Once the grass has grown you can put the pot in your rabbit's home for him or her to nibble on.

Dandelions

Dandelion Flower

Dandelions are often classed as weeds but they are many rabbits favourite food. The leaves also make a tasty addition to human salads. You may already have dandelions growing in your garden or know someone that has, in which case you can pick them for your bunny. Don't collect them from the side of roads though as they will have pollution from cars.

Dandelions have lovely deep green leaves and bright yellow flowers so will look nice growing in a pot on your windowsill. If you are growing them outside and don't want them to spread to the rest of your garden plant them in pots and cut of the dead flowers before they turn into seed heads.

Dandelion Seeds

Plant the seeds about 1/4 of an inch deep and a couple of inches a part. Water regularly so the soil stays damp. If all the seeds germinate you may need to remove some of the plants that pop up so there is enough room for the others to grow. These little plants can be fed to your bunny. A flowerpot that is 6 inches across will probably only hold one adult plant. Once the leaves are long enough you can start cutting them to feed to your bunny. Just a few plants can provide a regular supply of leaves for your bunny.

Carrots

Carrots can be grown in the ground or in deep pots. Rabbits can eat both the orange root and the green tops.

If you don't have room to grow whole carrots you can just grow the tops from existing carrots. Cut the top inch of a carrot and place it in a shallow saucer of water on the windowsill. The top will start to sprout new leaves which when grown can be fed to a your bunny. This won't a very large supply of 'greens' but enough for the occasional treats.

To grow whole carrots plant the carrot seeds about an inch apart and 1/2 inch deep, then water them. It will take a few weeks for them to start growing but water them regularly so the soil doesn't dry out. As they grow you'll need to thin them out (remove some of the seedlings) until they are about 3 inches apart so that the others have room to grow. Show more seeds every 3-4 weeks and you'll have a constant supply of carrots ready to pick.

If you sow your carrots in neat rows you'll be able to tell the difference between them and any weeds that spring up.

Nasturtium

People and rabbits can eat both the leaves and flowers of nasturtiums. They also look great in flowerbeds and in pots on windowsills/boxes. Soaking the seeds in water overnight will help them germinate faster. Then plant them 1/2 inch deep and about 8 inches apart. You can start them closer together if you have space to move some of the plants elsewhere later. If you are growing them outside wait until after the last frost. Water them regularly but don't soak them too much.

Parsley

You can buy parsley in a pot ready grown from a garden centre and then you will just need to water it regularly. If you have space in your garden you can take it out of the pot and plant it, otherwise it can grow happily on your windowsill.

You can also grow parsley from seed. It takes quite a long time to germinate, 3-4 weeks, so don't panic if nothing happens for a while! Sow the seeds about an inch apart and cover with a sprinkling of soil, keep them moist but don't drown them. You'll need to thin out the plants as they get bigger, to about 8 inches apart. Some varieties of Parsley can grow quite big; so check the label on the seeds you choose to see how much space you will need.

Basil

Like Parsley you can grow basil from seed or buy it as a plant from a garden centre. If you are sowing seeds plant cover them with about 1/4 inch of soil. Basil can grow quite big so check the label of the seeds/plant you buy to see how much room is needed. Wait until after the last frost to plant it and if you want it to survive the winter you will need to dig it up and bring it inside.

Mint

There are many different types of mint like peppermint, spearmint and apple mint. Avoid Pennyroyal as this is meant to be harmful to rabbits. Mint can spread quite aggressively so f you don't want it taking over your garden it is better to grow it in pots. Like other herbs you can often buy it as a plant as well as seeds. Make sure you water it regularly and put it somewhere sunny.

Feeding the Greens to Your Bunny

Once your greens have grown its time to introduce them to your rabbit's diet. If your rabbit isn't used to fresh foods you need to introduce them slowly. Start with small pieces, for example a couple of small dandelion leaves or a section of carrot and gradually add more. Keep an eye on your rabbit's poo, if it turns runny feed less. Occasionally a particular plant might not agree with a rabbits tummy so if small amounts of a food produce runny poo and this does not improve try a different 'green'.

picked from rabbithome

Bagaimana cara membedakan kelamin kelinci

2009-06-16T19:39:00.000-07:00

Sexing rabbits is not really hard to do. You can usually do a good job identifying a buck from a doe, at least from the age of 3 weeks and on. An older buck is easy to identify. The head and body is generally more blocky than the doe. Does of the medium and large breeds often develop a fold of skin under their chins. This fold is called a dewlap. Older does are usually larger than bucks of the same breed. A buck's testicles can be seen on a hot day. The testicles must be kept at a certain temperature in order for sperm to be produced. The testicles descend further on hot days and are brought back toward the body on cool days. In this way their temperature is regulated.

Determining the sex of an older rabbit from a distance is usually easy to do, keeping the above differences in mind. Before discussing close up sexual identification, let's go over some definitions.

Definitions

Anus: The round opening at the rearmost area of the rabbit, on the belly side, next to the tail. Its purpose is to eliminate solid waste from the body. In other words, it's where the poop comes out. It is an unsanitary hole. It can carry many types of germs.
Buck: The male Rabbit.
Doe: The female Rabbit.
Penis: The male's sexual organ. It is located next to the anus, a little further away from the tail. It is cylindrical in shape coming to a rounded point at the end. It has a dual purpose. It eliminates liquid waste from the body. In other words, it's where the pee (urine) comes out. The urine is normally sanitary, without germs. The penis has another purpose. That purpose is to release sperm into the doe's vagina so that the doe can produce baby bunnies.
Testicles: A male's sperm and hormone producing organs. These are elongated pink sacks on either side of the penis that descend from within the buck as he gets older. Normally the testicles are not visible until about 2 or more months of age. Their first appearance may vary, depending on the sexual maturity of the buck and the temperature.
Vagina: The female's sexual organ. It is somewhat like a slit and looks similar to the penis when you push down to identify it, but it can be easily distinguished from the penis because a penis does not normally have a slit (except in rare circumstances). The vagina also normally has visible blood vessels running down each side of the inside of the slit. The purpose of the vagina is to receive the sperm from the buck so that she can have bunnies. The vagina acts as the birth canal from which the babies are born and houses her urinary tract opening toward the front of the slit which allows her to urinate (pee).
Vent Area: The general area that includes the sex organs and anus.

To identify the sex of a rabbit at a closer range, you must hold the rabbit upside down. If done correctly, this hypnotizes the rabbit and makes it easier to examine. I always recommend wearing a long sleeve thick cloth jacket to avoid getting scratched by the rabbit.

	With larger rabbits, you need to cradle them in one of your arms while you inspect their vent area.
	With small rabbits, you can cradle them in one hand.

To determine the sex of the rabbit, use your forefinger and middle finger to press down the vent area just in front of the anus. In both the doe and buck, the area will protrude. The doe will display a slit or central line running up and down. Each side of the slit will be banded in pink.

The buck, on the other hand, will display, if less than 5 weeks old, a blunt white tube without a central line. It will not have pink traversing either side of a center line. Older bucks will present a pink tube with a pointed end that resembles a bullet.

With younger rabbits, you must look very closely to see the difference.



Buck Over 9 Months Old	Doe Over 9 Months Old


Buck 4 Weeks Old	Doe 4 Weeks Old


Netherland Dwarf Buck 3 Weeks Old	Netherland Dwarf Doe 3 Weeks Old

Memilih makanan yang baik untuk kelinci peliharaanmu

2009-06-16T19:31:00.000-07:00

A pet rabbits diet is usually made up of three parts: hay, dry food and various fresh foods (a.k.a. greens). Getting the right balance of these food groups is very important to keep your rabbit healthy. A bad diet can result in overgrown/misaligned teeth, obesity and digestion problems. This article mainly covers choosing and feeding dry food with a brief mention of the importance of hay, for a guide to safe/unsafe vegetables see Edible Plants for Rabbits.

Hay should make up a large part of your rabbits diet as it is high in fibre, which is important for keeping the gut working properly. The chewing action your rabbit uses whilst eating hay also helps to wear down the teeth, which in a rabbit grow continually, and prevent them overgrowing. As well as fibre, hay is also a source of vitamins and minerals. Your rabbit should always have hay available. A pile of hay, roughly the same size as your rabbit, each day is a good guide although some rabbits will eat more or less than this amount. If you rabbit does not eat much hay you can encourage it by placing the hay in areas he/she likes to doze such as the litter tray and bed. Adding hay to toys, such as stuffing it in cardboard tubes, can also encourage you rabbit to nibble.

Pictured: 50g of Supreme Science Selective.

If you rabbit is not keen on eating hay then it will be particularly important to choose a dry food as high as possible in fibre. Dry foods come in a variety of different types/brands and choosing the right one for your bunny can be confusing. There are two main types, pellets and mixes, these can easily be identified by appearance but you will have carefully read the label to identify whether they are complete (contain all the nutritional needs) or complimentary (don't contain all the nutritional needs). Rabbit Mixes contain a variety of different looking ingredients like cereals, flaked peas and coloured biscuit like lumps. Rabbit Pellets, as pictured right, have the ingredients mixed together within the pellets. Many owners feel that pellets look boring but rabbits are more interested in taste than looks and the majority seem quite pleased with the flavour. Mixes have the draw back that they allow a rabbit to select their favourite bits and leave the rest. If you rabbit selectively feeds from a mix then they may miss out on important nutrition. A complete pellet is generally the best type of food for a rabbit.

The chart below shows the nutritional analysis of some of the main brands of rabbit food available as you can see they vary quite a lot in both fibre and protein content. An adult rabbit should have a food with a fibre content of at least 18-20% and a protein content of around 12-14%. Young rabbits need a higher protein level of around 16% as they are still developing.

Company	Food	Fibre	Protein	Oil	Calcium
Proper Food 4 Pets™	Natural Rabbit HIFI	27.40%	14.25%	7.60%
Allen & Page	Natural Rabbit Pellets	23%	12%	3.25%
Burgess	Supa Rabbit Excel	16%	12%	4%	0.9%
	Supa Rabbit Excel Junior	16%	16%	4.5%	0.9%
	Supa Rabbit Excel Lite	18%	12%	2.5%	0.9%
Supreme	Science Selective	19%	14%	4%
Oxbow	Bunny Basics T (Adult Rabbits)	25-28%	14%		0.35-0.8%
Oxbow	Bunny Basics 15/23 (Young Rabbits)	22-25%	15%		0.5-0.8%

Changing Your Rabbits Diet

Any change to a rabbits diet need to be done gradually. If you changing one sort of dry food for another you should gradually mix the new feed into the old over a period of around 7-14 days. For example, start of with a mix of 10% of the new food and 90% of the old, and increase the new and decrease the old each day. During this time you need to watch out for changes to your rabbits poo. If they become soft or runny you are changing the food to rapidly.

Quantity of Rabbit Food to Feed

The quantity of dry food your rabbit requires depends on several factors including where it is kept, how old it is, how much exercise it gets and how big it is. A medium sized adult rabbit, getting plenty of exercise, generally requires no more than 50 grams of dry food a day, as well as plenty of hay and a selection of 'greens'. This is about half to three quarters of a standard size mug. A rabbit that eats a large quantity of hay and 'greens' may eat less.

A rabbit kept outside during the winter may need an increase in pellets to maintain a healthy body weight as they expend more energy in keeping warm.

If your rabbit does not take much exercise then you may need to reduce the amount of pellets and let them top up on hay to prevent them becoming over weight. Encouraging them to take more exercise with plenty of space and toys is also of benefit.

The best way to tell whether you are over feeding is to monitor your rabbits weight by regularly recording it. Once a rabbit has reached adulthood its weight should remain reasonably consistent. Knowing your rabbits normal weight will help you quickly spot possible problems. A healthy adult rabbit that is gaining weight may need its diet altered to prevent it becoming over weight. This should be done by reducing the amount dry food and topping up with hay and 'greens'. A rabbit that loses weight may have teeth or other medical problems and needs to be checked by a vet.

Diets for Young, Adult and Older Rabbits

At different time's in your rabbits life he or she will have different dietary needs. A young rabbit is growing and will need a higher protein level, generally baby rabbits can be allowed food ad lib. An elderly rabbit may need more dry food to maintain a healthy body weight.

Dirty Bottoms

If you find your rabbit is producing a large amount of soft poo rather than the usual 'currents' then you may be feeding too many pellets or a pellet that is to low in fibre. Try reducing the amount of pellets and topping up the diet with more hay. Checking the nutritional information on the back of the bag, fibre should be at least 18-20%.

If you are worried about your rabbit's health or diet discuss it with a rabbit savvy vet. They will be able to advise you what is best for your particular rabbit.

picked from Debmark

Pengelompokan kelinci

2009-06-16T19:29:00.000-07:00

Small Breeds

The next group of rabbits make up the small size breeds. They vary from about 2-1/2 to 5 pounds. These rabbits consume between 1/3 and 2/3 cup of feed per day and take up 3-1/2 sq ft of cage space. The small breeds have characteristics between the dwarfs and the medium size breeds. They usually have 1 - 3 more babies in their litters than the dwarfs and do not carry the possibly lethal dwarf gene. However, they are still more susceptible to death from coccidiosis than the larger breeds. A few pet stores will carry these small breeds and you can expect perhaps $2.00 less from the pet shops than the dwarfs will bring. They may only take them during Easter. Check with your local stores. Sales to other breeders will command similar prices to the medium size rabbits, about $20.00. The small breeds consist of:

American Fuzzy Lop (Many colors - Angora fur - Lop Ears) 3 - 4 lbs
Dutch (The feet, front half of torso and face are white, the other parts can be black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel, or brown-gray) 3-1/2 - 5-1/2 lbs
Himalayan (White with colored ears, nose, feet, and tail of black, blue, lilac, or chocolate) 2-1/2 - 4-1/2 lbs
Holland Lop (Lop ears - Many colors) 2-1/2 - 4 lbs
Mini Rex (Rex coat - Many colors) 3 - 4-1/2 lbs

Medium Size Breeds

The next group of rabbits make up the medium size breeds. This group is characterized by weights ranging from 4-1/2 to 7 pounds mature. These rabbits consume between 1/2 and 1 cup of feed per day and take up 5 sq ft of cage space. Usually, pet stores don't want these breeds except possibly around Easter. The medium breeds produce an acceptable amount of meat on small bones. Some commercial meat rabbit breeders raise these breeds. But they usually prefer the next group - the meat rabbits, because the feed-to-meat conversion ratio is apparently better. Usually, those that raise the medium size rabbits like to show them and eat the ones that don't make the grade. Some of these rabbits are raised for their fur as well. On the whole, it is harder to sell these rabbits except to other fanciers of like mind. You can expect about $20.00 with pedigree for mature rabbits.

Rabbits that make up this group of medium breeds include the following:

American Sable (Also good for meat) 7-10 lbs
English Angora (Many colors) 5 - 7-1/2 lbs
French Angora (Many colors - good also for meat) 7-1/2 - 10-1/2 lbs
Satin Angora (Many colors) 6-1/2 - 9 lbs
Belgian Hare (Not seen much - different body style) 6 - 9-1/2 lbs
Standard Chinchilla 5 - 7-1/2 lbs
English Spot (White with spots of black, blue, chocolate, gold, gray, lilac, or tortoise) 5 - 8 lbs
Florida White 4 - 6 lbs
Harlequin (Has alternate bands of color) 6-1/2 - 9-1/2 lbs
Havana (Black, blue, or chocolate) 4-1/2 - 6-1/2 lbs
Lilac 5-1/2 - 8 lbs
Mini Lop (Lop ears - Many colors) 4-1/2 - 6-1/2 lbs
Rhinelander (White with spots of black and orange) 6-1/2 - 10 lbs
Silver (Black, brown, or fawn with white ticking) 4 - 7 lbs
Silver Marten (Black, blue, chocolate, or sable with white on belly, flanks, jaw lines, and eye circles) 6 - 9-1/2 lbs
Tan (Black, blue, chocolate, or lilac with tan on belly, flanks, jaw lines, and eye circles) 4 - 6 lbs

Meat Rabbits

Meat Rabbits make up the next group. They are characterized by weights between 8 and 12 pounds. These rabbits are raised for both meat and fur. Some of these may also be considered fancy rabbits because they have unusual fur, color, or ear characteristics. Most of these rabbits are shown a great deal. Rabbits in the meat group consume about 1-1/4 cup of feed per day and take up 7-1/2 sq ft of cage space. They will command a price comparable to the medium size rabbits, about $20.00 for mature ones. The rabbits that make up the meat group include:

American (Blue or White) 9 - 12 lbs
Beveren (Black, Blue, or White) 8 - 12 lbs
Californian (White with black ears, nose, feet, and tail) 8 - 10-1/2 lbs
Champagne D'Argent (Starts as black, mature is silver) 9 - 12 lbs
American Chinchilla 9 - 12 lbs
Cinnamon 8-1/2 - 11 lbs
Creme D'Argent 8 - 11 lbs
Hotot (White with black around its eyes) 8 - 11 lbs
English Lop (Many colors - giant lop ears) 9 - 14 lbs
French Lop (Many colors - regular lop ears) 10 - 15 lbs
New Zealand (Black, Red, or White) The standard meat rabbit 9 - 12 lbs
Palomino 8 - 11 lbs
Satin (Shiny coat - many colors) 8-1/2 - 11 lbs
Silver Fox (fur resembles fox) 9 - 12 lbs

The Giants

The next group of rabbits are the Giants. These are raised because some breeders just like giant rabbits. They can sometimes weigh up to 25 pounds. The giants require 1-3/4 - 2 cups of feed per day and 11 - 12 sq ft of cage space. The giant breeds also require stronger cages. Because few people raise these rabbits, they are more rare than the other breeds. It takes a strong person to lift these rabbits, so their demand is not great and thus harder to sell. They may command up to $50.00 for a mature rabbit and about $15.00 - $20.00 for a 2 month old one. Most of the giants are shown (their presence is always appreciated). They are mainly used for meat and fur. The feed-to-meat conversion ratio is less than the meat group. The giants include:

Checkered Giant (White with spots of black or blue) weight over 11 lbs
Giant Chinchilla 12 - 16 lbs
Flemish Giant (Black, blue, fawn, light gray, sandy, steel gray, or white) weight over 13 lbs

picked from Debmark

Membesarkan kelinci

2009-06-16T19:13:00.000-07:00

Raising Rabbits is Fun

Rabbits are fun to raise except when you have to go out and take care of them at 10 below zero. Considering this is the exception rather than the rule, we'll assume that, generally speaking, they are fun to raise. You may have different reasons for raising them - enjoyment, education, business, show, laboratory, meat, fur, and the bi-products they produce, such as fertilizer and fishing worms.

Don't expect to make a profitable business raising rabbits. Only a small minority of those who raise rabbits are capable of making a living out of it. Consider it, rather, an enjoyable hobby that can help pay for itself. Raising rabbits gets in your blood. Once you've had some good rabbits, you want to keep them around. I found that when I was raising too many and didn't have enough markets, the rabbits were eating me out of house and home. And so I got rid of them -- for a while. I then took up the hobby again because I found it was in my blood to raise rabbits.

Join ARBA

Before you get too many rabbits, it would be a good idea for you to join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). The low membership fee includes a very good booklet on raising rabbits. It lists all of the recognized domestic breeds of rabbits along with their characteristics. Membership in ARBA includes a subscription to Domestic Rabbits magazine that supplies you with helpful articles on rabbit raising. Each year you will also get a booklet listing the more than 35,000 ARBA members and their addresses. You will easily find rabbit fanciers living close to you.

If you start showing your rabbits, you'll need to be a member of ARBA in order for your rabbits to be awarded grand championships. A rabbit wins a grand championship when it has won first place in three rabbit shows. Having a grand champion is valuable. Not only does the rabbit's monetary value go up, but also its offspring are considered valuable.

Check out ARBA's web page for helpful books and materials. ARBA's web site also lists shows throughout the United States. Find a show near you and go to it. You'll learn a great deal there. Watching the judges, you will find what they consider good qualities in each particular breed. By exchanging information with other breeders, you can learn techniques that work. Shows are great places to shop for rabbits. You can find the breed(s) you would like to raise by seeing the rabbits up close and asking the owners what experiences they have had with them.

Purchase Only Pedigree Rabbits

Usually, it's not a good idea to go out and buy rabbits from someone who can't give you a good pedigree certificate. Without knowing a rabbit's ancestry, neither it nor its offspring to the fourth generation may become grand champions. You risk getting a mixed rabbit (one that is not of a specific breed), a low quality specimen of a particular breed that someone knew was poor and sold it as a pet, or a rabbit that has serious genetic defects. The principle of only buying animals with a pedigree applies anywhere. When acquiring a dog, why get a mutt, even though it might be free, when you can buy a pedigree whose offspring you can sell for more than five times the price you paid?

Even if you are purchasing a rabbit only as a pet, if you are planning on keeping the rabbit for any length of time, you need to consider its resale value. You may also later decide to raise rabbits on a larger scale. Having a pedigree certificate ensures that you are starting out right. When breeders give you a pedigree certificate, they are putting their reputation on the line. They are guaranteeing the background of the rabbit, specifying themselves as the owners, and authenticating it by their signature. Also, unless they're stupid, they're not going to knowingly sell you a defective rabbit. They wouldn't stay in business long. Those that cannot provide a pedigree certificate may not be an expert raising rabbits. They may knowingly or unknowingly sell you one that is sick or has a genetic defect. Usually they are not very helpful in getting you started right. Stick with recognized breeders of pedigree rabbits that will provide you with a certificate.

Keep in mind, however, that pedigree certificates can be falsified by the person selling you the rabbit. It is best to buy from a reputable person. Try getting a recommendation from someone who shows rabbits. They usually know the good breeders.

If you want added protection, purchase a Registered Rabbit. A registered rabbit is one which an ARBA licensed registrar has examined and certified as free from defects and disqualifications. The registrar has determined that the rabbit is healthy and a good representation of the breed. The registrar examines the rabbit's pedigree for completeness and accuracy. A copy of the rabbit's pedigree is forwarded to ARBA. Though inaccuracies can also be present with registered rabbits, the chances are better that you will get a better rabbit.

The key idea is to purchase your rabbits from a reputable person who can help you with your questions after the sale, one who is recommended by others, and one who guarantees the rabbits you purchase.

Pick Your Breed

I suppose the most difficult decision in raising rabbits is selecting the breed you want to raise. As for myself, I'm not satisfied with just one breed. I want representatives from several. I have Netherland Dwarfs in shades of white, black, chinchilla, chestnut, chocolate, and sable. I have white New Zealands, Californians, Rex in shades of white, black, lilac, chestnut, and broken (spotted). I also have Champagne D'Argents, chocolate English Spots, and black Silver Martens. I am planning on buying some Satins in the colors red, copper, and Siamese. I also want to purchase some more Netherland Dwarfs in the colors Himalayan, smoke pearl, black tan, and broken.

Breeds are characterized by size, shape, ears, fur texture, sheen, and color. In some breeds, the individual fur characteristics are combined. The main fur types are:

* Angora - The fur grows very long and is shaved or plucked and woven into yarn to be used in making Angora sweaters, hats, and mittens. The long haired rabbits can become a real problem for the casual rabbit breeder. Their fur has a tendency to matt and shed. It's a real bear trying to clean the cages that have long hair everywhere. The hair also floats out and settles on anything in your rabbitry.
* Satin - The fur has a special shine to it. It is used to make fine fur coats and hats.
* Rex - The fur has a velvety touch and is short. It is used also to make fine fur coats and hats.
* Multi-color fur - The fur is made up of two or three colors. Rarely will you find a fur coat made with these because of the problem of matching the patterns and colors. They are sometimes found in small furred items. Certain color patterns are sought for by judges when showing these types of rabbits.
picked from debmark

Kelinci Netherland (ND)

2009-06-07T20:44:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>jual kelinci>kelinci ini aku kasih nama popon, umurnya sekitar 2,5 bulan, warnanya abu-abu, pokoknya lucu deh, imut-imut kecil... aya yang mau? silakan beri penawaran.

Mau Pesen?

2009-06-04T02:52:00.000-07:00

Pilih kelinci yang ingin Anda pesan. Buka link kelinci yang bersangkutan dan Anda akan melihat informasi mengenai kelinci tersebut termasuk harga produk.

Jika Anda berniat untuk memesannya, silakan hubungi kami di 085285827697, atau melalui email kurniawanexpembangunan@yahoo.co.id. selanjutnya anda tinggal mentransfer sejumlah uang yang tertera pada harga kelinci tersebut ditambah biaya ongkos kirim kemudian jika sudah mentransfer anda tinggal konfirmasi kami kembali, yup cukup segitu aja kok. gampangkan??

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Rex

2009-06-03T06:13:00.001-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>jual kelinci>Sebenarnya Rex termasuk kelinci baru. Ras ini mulai di kenal di Amerika Serikat sejak tahun 1980-an, sebagai binatang kontes.Yang paling spesial dari Rex yaitu bulunya yang halussss banget. Apalagi kalo si Rex ini hidup di lingkungan yang bersuhu berkisar 5-15 C,makin rendah suhu lingkungan, makin indah dan bagus mutu bulunya. Ras Rex yang paling terkenal adalah White Rex, yang berbulu putih mulus dan tebal. Kualitas bulunya sangat baik, lembut seperti beludru. Ras ini juga di sebut Ermine Rex.

Netherland Drawf

2009-06-03T06:11:00.001-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Ras kelinci kerdil ini berasal dari Belanda, sering juga di panggil kelinci mini, karena jenis ini merupakan jenis kelinci terkecil didunia. Bobot dewasa nya hanya 0.9 kg.Bentuk tubuhnya pendek, kepalanya agak bulat.

Himalayan

2009-06-03T06:09:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Ras ini sekarang lagi banyak banget di cari, naik daun deh, harganya masih selangit sekarang. Banyak yang meyakini asalnya dari Cina sebab di sana banyak di jumpai kelinci ini. Mula-mula di bawa dari cina ke Eropa sebagai pengisi kebun binatang dan dikenal dengan nama ‘Kelinci hidung hitam dari Cina’. Warna hitam pada kaki mulai timbul pada umur 3-4 minggu, mula-mula pucat lalu menjadi hitam. Himalayan yang disilangkan dengan New Zealand White, anak-anaknya menyerupai Himalayan. Kalau disilangkan dengan kelinci berwarna lain, keturunannya tak ada yang menyerupai Himalayan.

Lop

2009-06-03T06:07:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Nah jenis ini termasuk yang favorit saya, memiiki ciri khas kepala lebar mata hitam dan telinganya koploh atau menggatung jatuh kebawah, lucu deh, ada yang bilang mirip anjing . Telinganya panjang, lebar, tebal, menggantung dari samping kepala ke bawah tetapi tidak sampai menggeser di tanah. Diantara macam-macam Lop, yang paling terkenal English Lop.

Dutch

2009-06-03T06:04:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Ras dutch (Belanda) sangat terkenal di seluruh dunia sebagai hewan hias piaraan. bobot dewasa jantan dan betina antara 1.5-2,5 kg. Betina bersifat keibuan fertilitasnya tinggi. Setiap kali melahirkan, kelinci menghasilkan anak 7-8 ekor. Warna bulunya khas, melingkar seperti pelana berwarna putih dari punggung terus ke leher sampai kaki depan bagian belakang dan kepala hitam,cokelat atau abu-abu.Moncong dan dahi putih. Kaki depan seluruhnya putih.Kaki belakang hitam atau warna lain dengan ujung kaki putih.Ada pula yang sekaligus memiliki 3 macam warna, sering di sebut Tricolored Dutch.

lyon

2009-06-03T06:00:00.001-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Sesungguhnya lyon adalah angora inggris yang tidak jadi kupingnya pendek, wajahnya di penuhi bulu-bulu panjang, mirip seperti lion (singa) tapi yang ini sih gak serem, malah cenderung lucu. Karena masih saudara dekat dengan angora, maka tiap 3 bulan sekali kita harus rajin mencukur bulunya yang cepat tumbuh.

Angora

2009-06-03T04:46:00.000-07:00

kelinci hias>kelinci baruku>Asal usul kelinci ras Angora kurang jelas. Konon, berasal dari kelinci liar yang berkembang secara mutasi dengan spesifik berbulu panjang. Angora pertama kali di temukan dan di bawa oleh pelaut Inggris, kemudian di bawa ke Perancis tahun 1723. Tahun 1777 Angora menyebar ke Jerman . Tahun 1920 meluas ke negara-negara Eropa Timur, Jepang, Kanada, dan Amerika Serikat. Sampai kini Prancis menjadi pusat peternakan kelinci Angora terbesar yang menhasilkan wool. Angora dewasa berbobot 2.7 kg, baik jantan maupun betina. Pertumbuhan bulunya yang sangat cepat yakni 2.5 cm per bulan, membuat kita hatus rajin mencukurnya 6-8 cm tiap tiga bulannya. Karena kalo di biarkan tumbuh, bulunya akan cenderung kusut dan menggumpal, gak cantik lagi deh .